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Our Chains replace OEM stock chains from 520, 525, and 530 110 links 140 links and 150 links extended chains. We have any length chain needed for bolt-on swing arms or fat tire kits you can choose from a chrome chain, gold chain or natural chains. Chain adjustment or rather, chain mal-adjustment. It might hard to believe, but an over tightened chain is a far worse than a loose one, an overly loose one will drag and saw into swingarm and anything else in its way. What is the best chain for me? See below for chain descriptions :
Standard or Heavy Duty chains
These are the most basic motorcycle chains you can get. They're lighter than the others, and narrower as they don't have o/x rings to help lubricate the links. They're cheap, and can be stupidly cheap if they're made from low grade medal metal, as you can find on (eBay). I wouldn't even think about using one on anything with more than about 60hp.
O Ring chains
These have rubber rings helping keep each link lubricated and prevent dirt and grime. They were invented around 1971 and made to improve lubrication. These are the benchmark chains and a half-decent one will last around 12,000-20,000 miles.
X Ring Chains
Like the street bike O-Ring chain, but the X-Ring chain will produce less friction and keep the lubrication in the links even better, so consequently a better chain life (claimed) of 40% plus.
Motorcycle Chain Inspection and Maintenance
Inspection and understanding what motorcycle chain you have is best way to prevent having to replace your chain more often than necessary. Seems simple and obvious enough, right? To start, you'll need to know what kind of chain your bike is running, like a 530, 520, 428, 525, 630 and so on. What those numbers represent is what type on tooth pitch a front and rear sprocket is on your motorcycle. This number can be found stamped on the old chain you're replacing or on either sprocket as well. The most simple and straightforward type of chain is a standard, non-sealed chain. This chain will require the most amount of maintenance because it doesn't have any way of keeping itself lubricated like an O-ring chain does. If your bike has one of these chains, you'll need to keep a closer eye on it for wear and attend to it more often.
So why would anyone want a non-sealed chain? There are a few advantages to having a these chains depending on the type of riding you will be doing. Many racers prefer this type of chain because they tend to have less friction than their sealed counterparts. While these chains will need more maintenance and need to be replaced more often, they allow racers to get a better ride. Also, many older bikes are not compatible with O-ring chains. While you may want to try to switch your chain over to the less demanding of the types, your engine may be better off staying with its original non-sealed chain.
The O-ring chain is a whole lot less needy. This chain has little O-rings between the link plates and rollers of the chain that are used to keep grease and lube inside of your chain while keeping dirt out of your chain. While these chains require less upkeep and tend to not need to be replaced as often, they do require some care. Over time, O-rings will lose lubrication and eventually will dry out, crack or even fall off. The best way to slow this process down is with regular lubrication with an o-ring safe lubricant. However, no matter how much you lubricate, the O-rings will get old eventually.
There are a few variations in the O-ring family. With the same concept of keeping the chain lubricated and reducing friction, other designs such as X-rings are slightly modified. For example, an X-ring chain is designed to reduce the extra friction over an O-ring chain by the shape of its cross section. X-rings have less contact area between the X-ring and the link plates and rollers. Because of this reduction in friction, X-rings also have a tendency to last longer than O-rings.