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STATOR

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HAYABUSA STATOR
HAYABUSA


HONDA STATOR
HONDA


KATANA STATOR
KATANA


KAWASAKI STATOR
KAWASAKI


SUZUKI STATOR
SUZUKI


YAMAHA STATOR
YAMAHA




Sportbike Stator Generator

Our heavy duty engine Stator generator can be used as a higher output replacement stator. Output is about 20% more than the OEM stator provides.

The motorcycle engine Stator is the heart of the electrical system producing alternating current (AC). It provides electrical current for your engine and the battery charging system, lighting, and the ignition system. Behind the stator cover is a stator made up of magnetic coils that spin inside it building up energy. The copper wire that is made up in the stator is what induces the current made by the battery.

How To Diagnose Electrical Charging Systems:



With an inexpensive multi meter set dial to DCV (for direct current volts) insert probes into the correct holes in the meter, touch the tip of the red on the + battery terminal and the black on the - terminal. With the ignition shut off and then engine not running, the meter will read 12.5V. Turn the ignition on and with the lights on, it should say something like 11.75-12V. Start the engine up and at an idle, it will show somewhere around 12V more or less, then gradually speed the engine up and depending upon your bike, somewhere around 2500-4000 rpm the reading should jump up to around 14.5-14.7V. If it does, the stator and regulator/rectifier is ok.

If the voltage doesn't go up to 12.5-13V, inspect the connection to stator because all it takes is for a little of the insulating varnish to crack on the miles of wire and it's bad. Disconnect the three wires (probably yellow). Set the multi meter on ACV (alternating current voltage) and at a setting should read 100V with the engine running at 2500-4000 rpm, check each of the three pairs of wires and see what the voltage output is. By three pair I mean left & right, left & middle and middle and right. Each pair should show voltage that is very close to the same, give or take a few volts. Yours will probably read somewhere from 30-70V depending upon the alternator's capacity. If the stator is bad, one pair will show voltage that is much less than the others, maybe 1/3-1/2 the voltage.

If the stator checks out, then it's likely the regulator-rectifier although normally they rarely fail. Before you go buying a new one, first disconnect and check all of the wire connections between the alternator and regulator rectifier and the battery cables as well. If any are corroded, green or the plastic connector is partially melted, clean them up well with sandpaper and a tiny point file (for cleaning ignition points). Buy some dialectic grease (cheap) and slather it on the connectors before reinstalling them. Some regulator-rectifier need a good ground between the box and the bike frame, so unbolt it and clean those places up as well. Hope this helps to diagnose your charging system.



 

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